Glenn and I went to London for a couple of days, doing things we intended to do when we visited that fascinating city as tourists but failed to do because we ran out of time. And looking at the international date line, and the many clocks and chronometers at the Royal Observatory was top of the list.
Top tip for anyone planning to do this: wear very comfortable shoes. The Observatory is at the top of a steep hill. We stopped often, partly to enjoy the amazing view, and partly to catch our breath!
Getting there involved catching a tube to Canary Wharf, walking to Heron Quays and catching and the DLR – Docklands Light Railway – the journey was part of the pleasure.
Things that struck me whilst walking through the various rooms were how many children died young, the intense and nasty competition between the various scientists, that there was one portrait of a woman astronomer amongst those of men, how beautiful the architecture was and how respectful the various tourists were of each other’s space – until a group of schoolchildren arrived and all that British and international politeness (heard American and Portuguese accents) was pushed aside as teenagers charged about, being noisy.
On the tube, there had been another group, primary school age, and I found it astonishing and annoying that they remained seated as adults stood; their teachers did nothing to encourage them to develop manners. Tsk, tsk.
Later, outside in the courtyard, Glenn and I sat on a low wall eating ice-cream and watching the huge red ball on the roof of the Observatory. At 1pm, it slowly rose up to the top of the metal spike, then fell down again. That is how mariners on the Thames used to set their watches so that they could use Greenwich Mean Time to calculate their longitude instead of having to wait for a cloudless night to calculate their position based on the stars. Watching the ball was about as exciting as waiting to see the Glockenspiel in Munich’s Marienplatz. So don’t stress if you miss it!
In the museum’s shop, I saw a book called Longitude and remembered reading it when Jo and Mary lived up north. It is about a Yorkshire clockmaker, John Harrison, who was brilliant and whose work was not only ignored but actively thwarted by some of the establishment. Its full title is Longitude: The True Story of a Lone Genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time, by Dava Sobel. I recommend it.
We had bought our tickets to enter the Royal Observatory combined with tickets to explore The Cutty Sark – a good discount, plus extra discount for being OAPs – Old Age Pensioners – whilst I don’t enjoy the words, I do enjoy the discount. We decided not to become members of all the museums in Greenwich because many of them are free anyway.
The Cutty Sark was most enjoyable. Loved the smell of the wood, the well-designed exhibits, and the man who talked about the boat’s history with such passion. After seeing the lower deck, the midsection, and the top deck, we went down under the tea clipper where we could see its copper-plated bottom and photographs of how it had been restored after a fire. We sat at a table right beneath the stern and had tea. One pot that yielded two scant cups of tea cost four pounds and fifty pence. Rip off!
Another top tip: Pack sandwiches to eat when you are out being a tourist; only pay for drinks. We also really enjoyed a pint each of passionfruit and soda at a pub just outside the gates to Greenwich park because it was a warm day, and very humid.
The area has a slogan – It Takes More Than A Day – and that is the truth. We didn’t see the market, the National Maritime Museum or the Peter Harrison Planetarium. So another trip to Greenwich is something to go back onto the list of “things to do”.
We retraced our steps using the DLR and tubes to emerge near Trafalgar Square. The memorial for Jo Cox, the Member of Parliament who was stabbed and shot by a man who may possibly have mental problems, was going on. It was moving to see that huge square so packed – literally standing room only. Wednesday would have been her 42nd birthday. How her husband and their two young daughters are going to miss her. And how shocking that someone killed her, apparently because of her political beliefs and actions. But although it was emotionally moving, we kept on physically moving because we had 20 minutes to get to where we were meeting Jo and Mary in Strand Street.
In Britain, it is called a Sat Nav. In South Africa, it is known as a GPS – Global Positioning System. But whatever it is called, it makes reading maps passe. I prefer to peer at a phone, as everyone else is always doing, rather than identify yourself as a tourist by looking at a printed map. But there is no doubt that following a map will give a simpler and more predictable route between points A and B. We took a really strange circular route, past St Martin in the Fields’s crypt and along Church Lane, then past the Metropolitan Police, to get to a coffee shop where we’d arranged to meet. After a pause to regroup, we went out to dinner.
Top Tip: Dawaat at the Strand Palace Hotel serves delicious Indian food. I love eating out because my taste for the mildest of curries (always a korma) doesn’t impinge on Glenn’s liking for the hotter the better – and this time, hotter was also really flavoursome, the best combination; he had the Grandma’s curry and said it was excellent. Jo and Mary both chose Rogan Josh and were very happy with their dishes. Mine was delish.
The desserts were magnificent. Unfortunately, I’ve forgotten the name of the tender little round balls of dough floating in syrup, served with pistachio ice cream, but I am sure the very attentive staff would know what to offer if you asked for it. Glenn chose chocolate filled samosas and those were delish too.
The restaurant is close to the Adelphi Theatre, which is where you can see Kinky Boots – a fun show filled with lots of great singing and dancing.
Back in Swindon, on Thursday, Glenn and I cycled over to the North Swindon library to vote. Today we’ll be hearing whether Britain has chosen to be in or out of the European Union. My vote was to stay in. It wasn’t a simple choice but the ballot paper didn’t allow for any “yes, but … ” options so I put my cross down next to what I believe to be the best.
Time will tell which option the majority of people chose. I really hope that whichever way it goes, the nastiness of the campaign will start to fade. I’ve felt as if I am living in a time warp – as if this is the 1930s with its strong talk leading to lots of violence. I hope I am wrong about the direction the world is heading towards.
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